Formula v2 · chemist-corrected · CM handoff

Amethyst Pericarp
Clarifying Clay Mask

비올레 · 항산화 마스크

The brief was "use more mangosteen." This does — the right way. Five to six Garcinia mangostana INCI ingredients (~7–8% total) span peel, whole fruit, ferment and pericarp-ester, so the mask is unmistakably mangosteen. But the one hazardous molecule — staining, sensitising, poorly-penetrating alpha-mangostin — is confined to a single encapsulated, PPO-inactivated slot at a disciplined ~0.2% active. Loud story, precise dose.

FormatKaolin-led clay wash-off · opaque airless tube · 50 ml

pH4.8–5.3

Basis3 INCI scrapes + strategy dossier, adversarially chem-verified

01 · The formula

Every ingredient, every phase

Phase	INCI	%w/w	Function
Phase A — Clay base (kaolin-dominant, dry-blend)
A	Kaolin	30	Mild bulk clay base — leads the system
A	Moroccan Lava Clay (Rhassoul)	6	Secondary mild sebum-pickup / decongest
A	Garcinia Mangostana Peel Powder — micronized, PPO-inactivated	0.75	Visible "see-the-rind" cue + gentle exfoliation + natural tint
A	Tapioca Starch	2.5	Slip / softens clay drag; velvet after-feel
Phase B — Humectant + active premix (pre-disperse before water)
B	Glycerin	7	Primary humectant + pre-wetting vehicle
B	Pentylene Glycol	3	Humectant + preservation booster
B	Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract — ≥20% α-mangostin, encapsulated, PPO-inactivated HERO	1.0	The only α-mangostin slot; shielded from O₂/light
B	Caffeic/Coco/Coumaric/Mangosteen Pericarp Esters (CosIng 86639)	0.5	Mangosteen antioxidant + antimicrobial (preservation boost)
B	Garcinia Mangostana Seed Oil verify INCI fallback: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	1.5	Whole-fruit emollient / lipid slot (optional)
B	Lecithin optional	0.5	Only if it carries the encapsulated hero — else omit (no separate oil phase)
B	Tocopherol	0.1	Lipophilic antioxidant — guards oil + xanthone fraction
Phase C — Water phase (q.s. to 100)
C	Aqua	to 100 ~40	Carrier / paste hydration
C	Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract — whole-fruit, water-soluble	2.5	The "whole fruit" aqueous antioxidant slot
C	Sodium Phytate	0.15	Chelator — binds browning catalysts; guards colour
C	3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid	0.5	Acid-stable vitamin-C antioxidant (stable ~pH 5) — guards the pigment
C	Xanthan Gum	0.4	Rheology / suspends clay + powder
Phase D — Preservation + pH
D	Dehydroacetic Acid & Benzyl Alcohol (Geogard 221)	1.0	Broad-spectrum preservative (works only < pH 6)
D	Caprylhydroxamic Acid	0.4	pH-independent antifungal booster
D	1,2-Hexanediol & Ethylhexylglycerin	2.0 / 0.3	Gram-negative + fungal coverage (the base pair is fungal-biased)
D	Lactic Acid / Sodium Lactate	q.s.	pH to 4.8–5.3, buffered against clay up-drift

Violet rows = mangosteen-derived. 5 solid slots + 1 optional (seed oil, pending INCI check). Total mangosteen ≈ 6.7% (without seed oil) → 8.2% (with). %w/w are formulation starting points for the CM — not a validated final formula.

02 · What the chemist changed

Draft → v2 — the fixes that make it defensible

The first draft was mangosteen-maximal but carried a false safety story and real stability gaps. The adversarial cosmetic-chemist review (verdict: fixes needed) caught them; all are applied.

Raw peel powder was the hidden hazard. The draft's 1.5% raw powder is unencapsulated pericarp — the same staining / browning / sensitising substrate the design tries to avoid. → Cut to 0.75%, spec'd micronized + PPO-inactivated + coated.
Preservation was under-powered for a ~40%-water, high-bioburden paste. → Geogard 221 0.8 → 1.0% + Caprylhydroxamic Acid + 1,2-Hexanediol + Ethylhexylglycerin (gram-negative + fungal coverage); validate by full ISO 11930 Criterion A on the actual clay-loaded matrix — clay adsorbs preservative, so label load ≠ available.
A jar defeats the oxidation strategy (O₂ re-enters every open). → Ship in an opaque airless tube/pump.
Two INCI failed validity checks — dropped the mis-referenced "Hydrolyzed Fruit Extract"; flagged Seed Oil to verify (fallback named). Replaced with the confirmed whole Fruit Extract + Pericarp Esters (which also help preservation).
Water-phase pigment guard rested only on phytate. → Added 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (acid-stable vitamin-C antioxidant — plain SAP would degrade at pH 5).
pH-drift + colour fragility. Clay alkalinity can push pH > 6 (preservative collapse); the amethyst hue browns at low pH. → Require pH-stability data, ceiling ≤ 5.5, and a validated finished-colour spec before any colour-led creative.

03 · Manufacturing & compliance

Manufacturing & QC

Buy, don't build — private-label ISO 22716 CM, MOQ 500–1,000. Per-batch HPLC COA declaring α-mangostin % on the hero extract.
Order of addition: dry-blend A → make B premix (disperse encapsulated actives + oil < 40 °C to protect niosomes) → hydrate C → combine B into A then C, high-shear → D last, adjust pH.
Bundle into CM scope day one: ISO 11930 PET + 3-mo accelerated stability (40–45 °C) + HRIPT/patch (the 2/30 delayed-ACD signal makes this non-negotiable) + finished-colour spec.
Anhydrous-leaning premix keeps free-water activity low to ease PET + export stability.

Claims discipline

CAN antioxidant-rich · clarifying · for blemish-prone skin · environmental defense · purifying ritual.

CANNOT anti-aging · whitening · detox · treats/cures acne. ~0.2% α-mangostin in a short-contact wash-off ≪ the leave-on RCT regimens → "studied ingredient," never "proven mask."

landmine Colour = incidental to the active, not an added colorant (FDA/EU color-additive rule). Secure a written US + EU opinion before any amethyst-forward creative.

04 · Decisions for you

Six open questions

Colour-additive regulatory opinion (US + EU) — get it in writing; it gates the whole colour/brand strategy.
Hero grade — confirm one supplier delivers encapsulated + standardised ≥20% α-mangostin + PPO-inactivated in a single grade (else encapsulate at the CM).
Ferment: day-one or phase-2? The dossier sequences it into a "Fermented / Advanced" SKU (extra CPSR + micro scrutiny). Kept day-one here for maximal mangosteen — droppable to simplify the base.
Seed Oil INCI — verify against PCPC / EU CosIng; if unregistered, use the fallback and the slot count becomes 5.
Sulfite — would further guard the anthocyanins but triggers allergen labeling; current stack is deliberately sulfite-free.
Exfoliant grit — confirm peel-powder particle size/% is gentle enough for a sensitive-skin wash-off.

Appendix A · The mangosteen palette

16 real Garcinia mangostana cosmetic ingredients

Scraped from INCI databases + suppliers — the raw material for a whole-fruit range. ✓ established INCI used in v2 · ⚠ verify before relying.

	INCI	Part	Function	Form / source
✓	Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract	pericarp	antioxidant hero (xanthone-rich)	CosIng — the RIGHT hero
✓	…standardized ≥20% α-mangostin	pericarp	concentrated active	spray-dried; wholesalerco (TH/ID)
✓	…water-soluble 40% α-mangostin	pericarp	aqueous active	Joyous Biological, OEM
✓	…encapsulated / niosome	pericarp	delivery-optimised, stable	niosome; OEM molecular-encaps
✓	Garcinia Mangostana Peel Powder	pericarp	abrasive / visible tint	CAS 90045-25-3 (CosIng: abrasive)
✓	Garcinia Mangostana Pericarp Powder	pericarp	abrasive / bulking	INCI Beauty 12933
✓	Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract	whole fruit	skin-conditioning antioxidant	CosIng 85551 (what Eminence uses)
✓	Lactobacillus/Mangosteen Pericarp Ferment Filtrate	pericarp ferment	postbiotic / barrier	CosIng 86230
✓	Caffeic/Coco/Coumaric/Mangosteen Pericarp Esters	pericarp phenolics	antioxidant + preservative-boost	CosIng 86639
✓	Alpha-Mangostin (isolated, 90–98%)	pericarp	purified xanthone	labels under "…Peel Extract"
⚠	Hydrolyzed Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract	whole fruit	solubilised antioxidant	CosIng ref disputed — verify
⚠	Garcinia Mangostana Seed Oil	seed/kernel	emollient	INCI Beauty 37897 — verify
⚠	Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Powder	whole fruit	functional powder	spray-dried bulk; Joyous
⚠	Garcinia Mangostana Bark Extract	bark (tree)	skin-conditioning	COSMILE 5785 (off-fruit)
—	Mangosteen (Aromatic Extract)	fruit	fragrance	scent component (Eminence)

Appendix B · Competitor intel

Why the white space is real

Eminence Mangosteen line (cleanser · concentrate · gel moisturizer · mist) uses Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract, sitting low in every deck (after the phytonutrient blend, ginger, ginseng). They market resurfacing/lactic — nobody heroes the pericarp, and there is no mangosteen mask.
Benchmark clay wash-off masks (Herbivore, Tata Harper, Innisfree, Kiehl's, Aztec) gave the base skeleton — kaolin/bentonite/rhassoul + glycerin + gum + Geogard/CHA. None carry mangosteen at all.
VIOLÉ's slot: the first premium pericarp-hero, whole-fruit, wash-off mangosteen mask. This formula is that product.

Amethyst PericarpClarifying Clay Mask