All three are the one product — a mangosteen antioxidant clarifying clay mask, all-skin, amethyst. Same function, same result. They differ only in how deep the active system goes: a good → better → best ladder, not three skin types. Systems 1, 2, 4 & 5 (the "chassis") are shared; only System 3 (the actives) changes.
Every clay mask is really 5 ingredient systems working together — each has a job, each produces part of the result. This is the combination mapped.
| System | Ingredients | What it does | Result you get |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 · Clay / absorb | Kaolin · Rhassoul (+ optional charcoal / green clay) | binds & lifts excess sebum + surface impurities | deep-clean feel, clearer-looking pores, mattified |
| 2 · Hydration | Glycerin · Pentylene Glycol (+ Panthenol) | pulls water into skin, offsets clay tightening | comfortable, never tight or dry after rinse |
| 3 · Active changes | mangosteen slots + support antioxidants | neutralise free radicals, refine + clarify the look | antioxidant defense, radiance, clearer skin |
| 4 · Structure | Xanthan / Sclerotium Gum · Tapioca Starch · Sodium Phytate | thickens, suspends the clay, guards the colour | smooth spreadable paste, the amethyst stays true |
| 5 · Preserve + pH | Dehydroacetic Acid & Benzyl Alcohol · Caprylhydroxamic Acid · 1,2-Hexanediol · Ethylhexylglycerin · Lactic Acid/Sodium Lactate | kills microbes, sets skin-matched pH 4.8–5.3 | safe, stable, gentle, non-irritating |
Only System 3 changes across the 3 options. Systems 1, 2, 4 & 5 below are the shared chassis — identical in all three.
| INCI | Ph | %w/w | Function | Role |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kaolin | A | 28 | mild sebum + impurity absorption | clay base |
| Moroccan Lava Clay (Rhassoul) | A | 6 | mineral clay, decongests | clay base |
| Glycerin | B | 8 | draws water into skin | humectant |
| Pentylene Glycol | B | 3 | humectant + preservation booster | humectant |
| Tocopherol (Vitamin E) | B | 0.1 | antioxidant, protects oils/actives | support |
| Aqua | C | to 100 | carrier medium | base |
| Sodium Phytate | C | 0.15 | binds metals that brown the pigment | colour guard |
| Xanthan Gum | C | 0.4 | thickens + suspends the clay | structure |
| Dehydroacetic Acid & Benzyl Alcohol | D | 1.0 | kills bacteria / mold / yeast | preservative |
| Caprylhydroxamic Acid | D | 0.4 | pH-independent antifungal | preservative |
| 1,2-Hexanediol & Ethylhexylglycerin | D | 2.0/0.3 | broad + gram-negative coverage | preservative |
| Lactic Acid / Sodium Lactate | D | q.s. | sets + holds pH 4.8–5.3 | pH buffer |
One hero + two supports · 2 mangosteen slots. The purest expression — the encapsulated hero doing the work, minimal label, lowest cost. Best if you want to launch lean and clean.
| INCI | Ph | % | Function | Role | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract (≥20% AM, encapsulated, PPO-inact.) | B | 1.0 | concentrated xanthone antioxidant, shielded | HERO | core antioxidant / environmental defense |
| Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract | C | 2.0 | whole-fruit polyphenol antioxidant | mangosteen | reinforces antioxidant + the story |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | B | 0.5 | acid-stable vitamin C | support | radiance, more even tone |
| + full shared chassis (clay · hydration · structure · preservation · pH) | |||||
2 mangosteen slots · ~3% total mangosteen · lowest COGS · simplest CPSR.
Hero + four mangosteen slots + vitamin C. The full whole-fruit showcase — peel, fruit, ester, plus the visible rind powder. The "the purple proves the active" hero. Best balance of story, potency & manufacturability.
| INCI | Ph | % | Function | Role | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract (encapsulated) | B | 1.0 | concentrated xanthone antioxidant | HERO | core antioxidant defense |
| Garcinia Mangostana Peel Powder (micronized, PPO-inact.) | A | 0.5 | ultra-fine physical polish + visible rind | mangosteen | refines texture; the "see the rind" cue |
| Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract | C | 2.5 | whole-fruit polyphenol antioxidant | mangosteen | broad antioxidant + whole-fruit story |
| Caffeic/Coco/Coumaric/Mangosteen Pericarp Esters | B | 0.5 | mangosteen ester — antioxidant + antimicrobial | mangosteen preserve | extra defense + a more robust product |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | B | 0.5 | acid-stable vitamin C | support | radiance, even tone |
| Tapioca Starch | A | 2.5 | slip / soft-focus | sensory | velvet finish, no clay-drag |
| + full shared chassis | |||||
4 mangosteen slots · ~4% total mangosteen · the flagship.
Hero + five mangosteen slots + fermented postbiotic + soothers. Everything Signature has, plus the pericarp ferment (K-beauty "fermented" story) and a supporting-active stack that pushes clarifying + comfort further. The "does-the-most" hero — highest price, richest label.
| INCI | Ph | % | Function | Role | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract (encapsulated) | B | 1.0 | concentrated xanthone antioxidant | HERO | core antioxidant defense |
| Garcinia Mangostana Peel Powder | A | 0.5 | fine polish + visible rind | mangosteen | refines + the visible cue |
| Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract | C | 2.5 | whole-fruit antioxidant | mangosteen | broad antioxidant + story |
| Caffeic/Coco/Coumaric/Mangosteen Pericarp Esters | B | 0.5 | ester antioxidant + antimicrobial | mangosteen | defense + robustness |
| Lactobacillus/Mangosteen Pericarp Ferment Filtrate | C | 2.0 | fermented postbiotic, barrier support | mangosteen · fermented | soothes, supports barrier, K-beauty story |
| Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) | C | 2.0 | sebum + clarity + barrier multi-active | support | clearer, more even, less shine |
| Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) | C | 1.0 | humectant + soothing | support | calm, comfortable, no tightness |
| Allantoin | C | 0.3 | soothing, softening | support | smoother, calmer skin |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | B | 0.5 | acid-stable vitamin C | support | radiance |
| Tapioca Starch | A | 2.5 | slip / soft-focus | sensory | velvet finish |
| + full shared chassis | |||||
5 mangosteen slots + 3 supporting actives · ~5% total mangosteen · highest COGS; the ferment needs a microbiological + endotoxin CoA (extra CPSR scrutiny).
| ① ESSENTIAL | ② SIGNATURE ★ | ③ ADVANCED | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mangosteen slots | 2 | 4 | 5 |
| Total mangosteen | ~3% | ~4% | ~5% |
| Support actives | vit C | vit C | vit C + niacinamide + panthenol + allantoin |
| Fermented postbiotic | — | — | ✓ |
| Visible rind cue | — | ✓ | ✓ |
| Story | clean & clinical | "the purple proves the active" | max mangosteen, fermented |
| Relative COGS | lowest | mid | highest |
| Make / compliance | simplest | easy | ferment adds CPSR + micro testing |
They stack: Essential = hero + fruit + vit C → Signature adds peel powder + pericarp ester + more fruit + starch → Advanced adds the ferment + niacinamide + panthenol + allantoin.
Recommendation: launch ② Signature as the hero — the best balance of the full mangosteen story, the amethyst, disciplined actives, and easy manufacturing. Use ① Essential for a leaner/cheaper entry; hold ③ Advanced as the premium "fermented" line-extension once the hero has reviews.
Phases aren't different products — they're the sequence and grouping the factory combines ingredients in, so the mix stays stable and the actives survive.
| Phase | What goes in | Why it's grouped this way |
|---|---|---|
| A — dry blend | clays, powders, starch | blended dry first so they disperse without clumping |
| B — humectant / active premix | glycerin + the delicate actives (encapsulated hero, vitamin C) | actives pre-wetted before water → protected + evenly spread; kept out of hot steps |
| C — water phase | water + water-soluble ingredients | hydrates the blend into a smooth paste |
| D — cool-down / finish | preservative + pH adjuster | always last — heat degrades them, and pH is set at the very end |